See / Eat / Stay : Sydney +

After my week in Melbourne I headed to Sydney for a week. As well as doing my first site visit for The Big Project (half a house - GONE! - so exciting! more on that at a later date...) here's some other fun things that happened.

See / Blue Mountains - We like to head out of town with the step-sons whenever we get to Sydney. The problem is, in contrast to Melbourne, Sydney has a bit of a dearth of great things to do within a few hours drive. The Blue Mountains is a good standby when we can't think of anywhere else to go. Even with some slightly foreboding skies and the odd spatter of rain it still made for a nice break - great views, fresh air, a bit of a stroll...

See / Art Gallery of New South Wales - The gallery in Sydney is such a lovely place - the garden setting with views over Woolloomooloo, the mix of old and new architecture, the cafe (it serves cider!). And it's free. As a teen I fell in love with modern Australian painting, so visiting the gallery is like catching up with old friends. Funny what a strong reaction seeing a piece of art in the flesh can evoke. If you visit make sure you head downstairs to the contemporary art galleries. I was blown away (and a bit creeped out) by the installations down there. Inspiring stuff. 

See / Sydney Theatre Company - One of the things we've missed about living in Seoul is access to quality English-language the-ar-tar (you have to pronounce it like that, otherwise you might start taking everything too seriously). Anyway, knowing we'd be moving back (eventually) we signed up for an STC subscription this year. This trip we saw Fury, which I really liked. 

But really - it almost doesn't matter what play you see. Part of the fun is not knowing what's coming up, like reaching in to a lucky dip. Sometimes its wonderful, intimate, affecting, hilarious. And sometimes its terrible. But again, that almost doesn't matter, because then there's the great conversations about exactly how, where, and when the play was terrible. 

And the theatre isn't just about the play. It's about fighting your way to the bar and downing a wine at intermission. It's about the view of the Harbour Bridge from The Bar at the End of the Wharf, the 'ding ding ding' telling you to take your seats, the rituals, the crowd watching... (Also we sat next to Hugo Weaving, so we're basically famous.) 

See / Vivid Sydney - I've heard so many rave reviews about the festival of light that is Vivid Sydney, I was pretty excited to realise our visit coincided with the 2013 festival. So excited in fact that I tried to convince the husband to can the Blue Mountains trip (apparently he is not as thrilled by light projections as I am...). Anyway, I strolled around Circular Quay one mild Sydney night and took it all in. I only managed to see the tiniest bit but it was great, worth it for the MCA projection alone (which was really wonderful). The festival has finished for this year (sorry) but maybe you can start planning for 2014?

Eat / est., Sydney - The husband is in the midst of two months of crazy busy work travel, so to celebrate a rare night together we treated ourselves to an uber-fancy meal at est. And quite the treat it was! The best bits were: 1) The creamy, melty Brillat-Savarin; 2) The passionfruit soufflé (we were meant to share, but the chef clearly saw the look in my husband's eyes - he doesn't have a sweet tooth but he can inhale a soufflé in seconds - and made us one each!); and 3) The lamb rib eye. Yum. 

Eat / Ippudo, Westfield Sydney - I'm going through a bit of a ramen phase right now (actually, anything involving soupy noodles makes me weak at the knees right now) and I'd read about this place in Gourmet Traveller, so I checked it out. It was pretty tasty, though the soup base was on the heavy side - a bit too porky for my liking. Maybe chalk it up for when you need a slightly greasy, meaty, carbohydrate fix? (As a side note, the new Westfield food court in Sydney is pretty damn impressive! Looking forward to exploring it a bit more...) 

Eat / Bistro Moncur, Woollahra - My husband used to live just down the road from this (slightly expensive, but very good) bistro and it's always been one of his favourites. I always love the salads, and we always share the deliciously simple linguine as an entree. The restaurant has had it's ups and downs, but on this visit the meal and service were both great. 

Eat / Echoes, Katoomba - We had dinner here as part of our Blue Mountains weekend. I thought the food was good but not spectacular. If you're keen to go, I'd say do it at lunchtime when you can see the view (which apparently is spectacular). 

Eat / Sailors Thai Canteen, The Rocks - The more casual cousin to Sailors Thai, we went here for a post-theatre dinner of green curry and papaya salad. So delicious. And it made me realise that all the fancy French food and mod-Oz is great, but it's the good Asian meals I really, really get excited about these days. (See also, Longrain). 

Eat / Various - I had a decent red velvet cupcake (they're hard to come by) at Ghermez Cupcakes, Bondi Junction; a good coffee (also hard to come by, in Sydney at least) at Chrysler Cafe Bar, Sydney; and a fine (if unexceptional) breakfast at Indigo, Double Bay. 

Wow, we ate a LOT in Sydney!

Stay / Lilianfels, Katoomba - A hotel with a ye olde feel, spectacular location and decent food. And tennis courts, which we made good use of. And by 'good' I mean we used it more than once. And played appallingly. Considering the rooms, service and location it's the best place we've stayed in at the Blue Mountains. Sometimes in the hills you find that hotels translate 'ye olde feel' as 'we don't need to do building maintenance or provide any modern services or conveniences; but we'll still charge you as if we are'. But Lilianfels was not like this at all. Plus it had fabulous wallpaper, which counts for a lot in my books. 

Stay / Blue, Woolloomooloo - I like this hotel a lot. I like the way they've treated the old wharf building, and melded it into a hotel. I love the location (especially when I'm on my own, it feels a bit less intense than staying in the city). I love the sparkly blue water, the neighbourhood and the fact that it's only a short stroll to the gallery, Opera House and city. And I really like the service (so responsive it's a little spooky...). I like that as a Tablet+ member I get free internet and breakfast when I stay here. I like that it's (relatively) reasonably priced for such a nice hotel. But I don't like the thin walls and windows, because (call me crazy) I don't like hearing my hotel neighbours cheering as they watch the footy on the TV, or the drunken pub goers across the road. Fix that and this would be perfection. (ps. If you ever stay here make sure you check out the intriguing Artspace gallery space across the road.)

Watching Whales

So I just got back from a whirlwind trip of awesome - I had 24 hours in Hong Kong where I met the ridiculously lovely Cat from Raspberry Rainbow. Then I had 24 hours in Melbourne to hang out with the family, celebrate the launch of Find and Keep, and read the nephews a bed time story (or two!). 

And then I headed to Port Stephens in NSW to watch some freaking whales! We were out on the boat for three hours, it was rough (according to me and the seasick eldest step son anyhow...) and it was awesome. We went with Imagine Cruises and they were so great. Because they've been doing it for so long all the sea critters seem to know the boat, so for a big chunk of the trip we had pods of dolphins following the boat, leaping and playing all around us. And then once we spied some humpbacks (two adults and a calf) they cut the motor and the enormous creatures came to check us out. It was so great. Really, really great. (Apologies to my fellow boat people, I may have shrieked in excitement a few times...). And it's only a few hours north of Sydney. The season is pretty much over this year, but I would so highly recommend going out next year. I have a feeling we'll be doing it again, maybe I'll see you there?

Thredbo

Hello there! How are you? Are you well? I hope so. We're about a third of the way into our crazy three months of travel mayhem, and so far everything has been rather wonderful. Our weekend in Hong Kong was pretty great - dumplings and duck oh my! - and we've just returned from Australia after a week of skiing with the step-sons. 

We went to Thredbo and it was ace - a nice base of about a metre (well, nice for Australia at least!), a little sprinkling of fresh snow most days and, best of all, blue skies and zero wind. 

We've had some amazing ski experiences over the past few years, but they've normally involved sheets of ice, near blizzards and/or incomprehensibly cold temperatures. Our week in Thredbo was a nice reminder of just how lovely hanging out in the snow can be when you're not having to worry about how many fingers the eldest step-son can lose to frostbite before we call it a day. 

We stayed in almost every night, barbecued on the sightly snowy balcony, drank good Australian red wine, played lots of cards, watched Three Amigos and all kinds of ridiculous count downs on MaxTV (and educated the step sons on the nuances of why Wham! is good-bad but Richard Marx is just bad-bad), slept in and, oh yes, we skied a bit too...

The weekend (plus a few days) that was...

Hooly dooly what a crazy few days it's been!  There's been giraffes and rhinos and meerkats at Werribee Open Range Zoo; tons of fun at Straight to You, the Nick Cave Tribute concert in Geelong; tasty food and possibly a bit too much sake at the rather appropriately named Sake restaurant in Sydney; gorgeous greenery (see above), roos, rosellas and rocks at Jenolan Caves.  Basically five days of friends, family, food and worlds colliding in the best ways possible.  Happy days indeed!

Jenolan Caves

A few weeks back we did a whirlwind trip to Australia to see the step sons and we spent a wonderful weekend at Jenolan Caves - a spectacular set of caves just on the other (non-Sydney) side of the Blue Mountains.  The caves really were wonderful, my dodgy photos in no way do them justice!  

I'd been there before but this visit was amazing - we were a bit more organised and actually booked some tours (actually, our friends booked them on our behalf - thanks Kylie!).  Plus we did the morning tours which meant a lot less people which meant it was a lot more enjoyable.  

Also, last visit we stayed at the onsite accommodation which is a bit manky and if you stay there you are forced to eat the food at Caves House, which is not a pleasant thing.  This time we stayed 7 kms out at the Jenolan Caves Cottages, which were still a bit manky but which were set in the midst of thick woodlands, surrounded by kangaroos and kookaburras and cockatoos.  Plus they had the best gas heater to keep us toasty warm at night, spots for campfires and marshmallow toasting (a big hit with step son number one), and a kitchen which meant we could load the car with steak and fruit and cheese and wine and cook our own meals - what more could one ask for?

(they may look cute but don't be fooled, they turn mean once they get a whiff of your Cheesels...)

And then there is the stunning blue lake just near the caves, which houses a bunch of show off platypi (platypuses?).  Now, if you know anything about the humble platypus you'd know that they are normally very shy and very retiring critters, so it's pretty unusual to be able to see one gamboling about in the broad day light, but these guys do just that.  I'd show you a photo of them but clearly I need to invest in some kind of zoom lens, as all my photos look like a wiggly brown stick floating in the lake (at least I know it's a platypus, and that's all that really matters right?).  But the lake itself is stunning - just look at the reflections!

Good food, great company, blue sky, a bit of wildlife and a warm heater - sometimes the simplest getaways are the absolute best, don't you think?

Melbourne: Shops

Oh Melbourne!  With your endless array of mid-century modern vintage shops, your quirky little designer boutiques in strange lane ways, your queens of craft selling all things handmade...oh, wait, I kind of did this yesterday didn't I?  But it's true, Melbourne is a pretty cool place to shop.  And the lovely thing is that most of the fun is in the looking, you don't even need to buy anything!

As I mentioned before this trip I stayed at my sister's house, which entailed running a few errands here and there.  The good / bad thing is that every time I went somewhere to pick something up, she'd always be telling me about some cute shop just around the corner that I had to check out... One of my favourite such places was OK OK in Brunswick, mainly because of their own brand tights and socks which are amazing quality and fabulously colourful and...made in Melbourne! Awesomeness!

I also finally got to check out Third Drawer Down, and Mr Kitly where they had an exhibition involving hanging plants and crocheted lamps, and a Japanese paper craft book all about thank you cards which I couldn't resist.  And there was Cottage Industries on Gertrude Street where I lusted after zig zaggy crocheted cushions, and admired the crocheted tree out the front.  Actually all of Gertrude Street was pretty impressive - lots of wonderful arts and crafts and textiles on show.

Melbourne: Food

Oh Melbourne!  With your cafes and delicatessens, your enotecas and tapas bars, your bakeries and your coffee roasters.  You may seem expensive these days but I don't care, I still drool when I walk in to a neighbourhood fruit and veg store, I shiver with delight when I see a local supermarket selling ligurian olives and turkish bread and fresh lemongrass.  Melbourne, you are food heaven, and when I'm away I miss that about you, I really do.

So of course when I go back to visit you I eat, and eat, and eat.  On my most recent trip there was: great coffee from Seven Seeds; ridiculously tasty poached eggs with corn fitters from St. Ali (thanks to Beci for the recommendation and to Shannon for the facials and the lovely company); possibly one of the most delicious meals I've ever had at Gigibaba (third time lucky, so glad we finally managed to get there!); plus I also got to see the launch of my brother-in-law's newest food adventure, the Taco Truck (the fish taco was my favourite!).  Yumlicious!

Here's my nephew Ari hiding 'from the cheeky people' at the Taco Truck launch, plus Tyke looking a bit moody, as only a 7 year old can.

Melbourne: My Sister's House

I had a few crazy days in Melbourne recently.  When I go back home I normally do exactly that, and stay in the house I grew up in with my Mum and step-dad.  But this trip I stayed at my sister's house, which was pretty damn cool.  

Mainly because I got to hang out with my nephews way more than normal - pick them up from school, read them bed time stories, put up with them constantly asking to play on my iPhone... - and my nephews are two of the handsomest, smartest, funniest, coolest kids around (impartial judge that I am).  And it was also cool because at Beci's house there's always something interesting, pretty, colourful, beautiful or delicious to look at.  Plus, their food is scrumptious and their couch is super comfy.  

Though to be honest I could do without the 6.30am wake up calls (aka the youngest nephew squealing at me).  As a part time step-parent to older kids I'm not quite used to the hard slog of late nights and early mornings day in day out...

Anyway, the photos: that's Miso, My sisters cat up the top - don't you just love his saucer eyes? Kind of intense right?  And under that is this amazing teepee (my youngest nephew likes to build nests).  The quilts draped around it where made by my Granny!  They were on our beds in our Dad's house all through our childhood.  I have such strong, fond memories of those quilts, I'm so glad they're still around.

Sydney weekend

Just some pics from our weekend in Sydney a little while ago.  A few days of eating, drinking, playing some games, watching some RocKwiz and - when the blue sky occasionally appeared - a bit of swimming and boating.  With many thanks to Dave, Kylie, Jacko and Bella for letting us eat all their food and drink all their wine (and create mounds of laundry)!

ps. the husband and the aforementioned Dave (who go way, way back) have a new nickname - they are now known as Statler and Waldorf, especially nearing midnight.  If you can't quite remember who Statler and Waldorf are, have a look at this.

Sculpture by the Sea

state of square by Faith Semiz

Sculpture by the Sea is the best free arts event anywhere ever.  There, I've said it.  And it's true. Take a sunny Sydney day, a cliff top walk with stunning views and a jumble of kids and dogs, then add a bunch of absurd, breathtaking, beautiful and/or hilarious sculptures - you can't help but end up with one of the loveliest ways to spend an afternoon.

Unfortunately this years Sculpture by the Sea is over (it runs for about two weeks).  But I was lucky enough to be in Sydney while it was on, so I took a ferry and a bus (and another bus, the first one turned out to be the wrong one...) on a blue sky afternoon and spent a most pleasant sundown wandering between Bondi and Bronte soaking it all in.  Here are some photos of my favourites (this post could have been 100 photos long, so it's quite restrained really).

And ps. If you're a Sydney-sider you must keep an eye out for next years event, and gather up your children and pets and picnic blankets and go when it's on!  You must!  And while you're there buy a program or make a donation, because this event deserves your support!  It does!

a french litter by Geoff Harvey

from optimism to hope by Andrew Rogers

garden mandala by Ian Swift

cycle90 'a premonition of wind' by Kaoru Matsumoto

transfiguration 'link' XXIII by Mitsuo Takeuchi

sea cells by Lucy Barker

sitting hen by Tae-Guen Yang