Hong Kong : Nan Lian Gardens

I've been wanting to go to Nan Lian Gardens for about five years now. I'd read such lovely things about these gardens, and I'd recommended them to others (who all reported back such lovely things too). But in all my trips to Hong Kong I'd somehow managed not to get there. Perhaps because I'm such a Hong Kong Island girl, I kind of get (happily) trapped there and forget there's so much more to explore. But last trip, just before I headed to the airport, I finally caught the MTR out to Diamond Hill and got to see the gardens for myself. It was a warm, sunny weekday and the gardens were peaceful and quiet and beautiful. The golden pavilion, the bridges and waterfalls, the bonsai - wonderful! Along with CitySuper, my waxer*, the Star Ferry and Life Cafe I think Nan Lian Gardens might get added to the list of regular stops for Hong Kong visits.

*Her name is Joey and she is without doubt the best waxer in Hong Kong, possibly the world. She's been looking after my depilatory needs for five years now, and I've seen her go from working for someone else to breaking out and starting her own business. If we ever leave Asia she might be the thing I miss the most. Seriously.

Hong Kong : Through My (fancy new) Lens

Some shots from my recent Hong Kong trip, taken with my fancy new 35mm wide angle lens. I kind of bought this lens on whim - I just had an idea that I wanted a 35mm lens, but hadn't done much more research than that. I went for the new Canon f/2 lens with image stabilisation. 

After reading some online reviews it seems I probably paid too much for this when I should have just gone for Canon's basic 35mm lens...but! I haven't taken this lens off my camera since buying it so no regrets. 

I love the depth of field you can get with it - similar to the 50mm lens but without having to stand a long way away from your subject. There's little bit of 'light fall off' (basically, vignetting) at very low apertures too, which I actually really love. It's solid but light, quick to focus and is one of those lenses that's meant to closely reflect what the eye sees. A new favourite for me!

All of these images where taken just above Central on Hong Kong Island. I normally stay in the area when I visit, it's so full of life. The little streets are crammed with shops selling herbal tea, chinese medicine and all kinds of festive goods; there are wet markets full of fruit, flowers and tofu; and busy dai pai dongs (open-air food stalls). Plus you're only a step away from bars, cafes (including the delicious Mana!), and seriously good coffee (as good as you'll find in Melbourne, and that's a big call!). It's a perfect mix of old and new, slap-dash and mannered.

Hong Kong : Through My (dodgy old) iPhone

Last Sunday night the husband and I were talking about his crazy busy week of work ahead, and I made some flippant half-jokey comment about needing to go to Hong Kong to get waxed and buy tuna...and he said 'Do it! Go check out flights now!'. And I did. (Have I mentioned I'm married to the bestest man in the whole universe?)

The first full day there I deliberately left the camera behind at the hotel, so I took some shots with my iPhone instead. Here are my favourites - the fairly typical haze of Hong Kong above (can you spot the setting sun?), and some fun silhouette shots below (captured out the front of Ocean Terminal, the Lunar New Year decorations there are wonderful!). 

In other news, I bought myself a kind of fancy 35mm lens as an early birthday present, and I did give that a good work out on this trip...a post will be coming soon (once I download and edit a bazillion photos...Hong Kong is such a visually inspiring city, there's something you want to capture around every corner).

Japan : Disneyland and other mistakes...

We recently spent seven days in one of my most favourite countries to visit - Japan. We had a few days in Tokyo, and then we headed to Hakuba (near Nagano) for four days of fun in the snow. As great as the skiing was (and it was great), and as delicious as the food was (and it was delicious), and as fast as the Shinkansen was (and it was fast), this week in Japan was not our finest travel moment. 

I think we got a bit lazy because hey! we've been to Japan more than a handful of times, we know what we're doing. And it's only a two hour flight from Seoul, it's basically like going to Brisbane. And besides, our friends are organising most of the trip. So...we don't need to do any research or anything, right? As it turns out, wrong. 

Here's some of the mistakes we made: 

1. We planned our trip so that we had a few days in Tokyo before we went skiing. We forgot that all of Japan goes on holidays for the first few days of the new year. That's a lot of people going on holidays. It means a lot of restaurants and other things are shut, and it means that the places that are open are really, really, really busy (see point 2). If we had done some research we would have headed straight to the snow when we landed and had our time in Tokyo at the tail end of our trip. (For more information on Japan during the new year period head here.) 

2. We went to Tokyo Disneyland. Now the husband would say this was a mistake in itself, he is not a fan of the big rat, but that's another discussion for another day. The real mistake was that we went on January 4, and from the looks of it so did almost everyone else in Tokyo. We were smart enough to pre-buy our tickets online, but that didn't help much...

Inside there were incomprehensibly long queues - two and three hour waits for rides; 'fast passes' that meant you could reserve a place to get on a ride at 9pm (we were there at 11am). There were unbelievably lengthy queues for popcorn, toilets, soda. So even though it was fun to see the Disney fanatics all dressed up, and to marvel at the sheer mass of humanity and the way everyone was so patient and calm and happy, it was a bit disappointing especially for the under tens in our group. 

3. We didn't do a lot of research on how to get from Tokyo to Hakuba. Because we've done it before, we thought we knew what we were doing. I'd forgotten that was over five years ago, and that it was in the early days when we were travelling with the stepson's mum/husband's ex-wife and I have a feeling my head may have been focussed on things other than travel arrangements and local holidays and what-not. 

Anyway, we caught the Shinkansen to Nagano and nearly fainted at the cost of tickets (I'm not suggesting we could have got them cheaper, but at least if I'd used this site I would have been prepared for the cost!). And then when we arrived in Nagano we discovered the bus to Hakuba wasn't leaving for another hour, which meant we decided to cram four people and their ski gear in to one of those quaint Japanese taxis that I love so much (doilies!). We remembered that the ride last time wasn't too long or too expensive, but memory is rather faulty isn't it? 

4. We didn't research where to stay. Our hotel was actually pretty good - it was chosen by our friends who co-ordinated the whole trip with a bunch of other families (thank you!) - nestled amongst the trees it had decent-sized rooms, a nice bar/breakfast area and wasn't too far from the Happo One ski area. But...let's just say they were right in the midst of some um, 'management issues'. There was a strong whiff of Faulty Towers about the place. 

5. We didn't research where to eat. I've mentioned before that a large part of my reason for travelling is food. There is no shortage of deliciousness in Japan, but going in blind meant it took us a few nights to find our feet (ever tried to mime 'more breast, less gizzard' in a yakitori restaurant?). Once we got our bearings though - oh my! The food! We had three incredible Japanese meals in Hakuba (one here, and two nights in a row here) and the best pizza I've ever had in my life at...Haneda airport! Who would have thought? 

So, we messed up a bit. But even with these few hiccups it really was a good trip with fabulous skiing, fun company and beautiful sights. It reminded us what great snow really is (we'll be going back, for sure). And it reminded me that I need to get to Tokyo without husband and stepsons in tow, so I can spend a whole day immersed in Tokyu Hands and Itoya and all the other amazing retail spaces the city has to offer. So...I'm doing exactly that in a few weeks! Y to the AY! And I'll be doing a post on Tokyo tips when I return. Stay tuned!

Watching Whales

So I just got back from a whirlwind trip of awesome - I had 24 hours in Hong Kong where I met the ridiculously lovely Cat from Raspberry Rainbow. Then I had 24 hours in Melbourne to hang out with the family, celebrate the launch of Find and Keep, and read the nephews a bed time story (or two!). 

And then I headed to Port Stephens in NSW to watch some freaking whales! We were out on the boat for three hours, it was rough (according to me and the seasick eldest step son anyhow...) and it was awesome. We went with Imagine Cruises and they were so great. Because they've been doing it for so long all the sea critters seem to know the boat, so for a big chunk of the trip we had pods of dolphins following the boat, leaping and playing all around us. And then once we spied some humpbacks (two adults and a calf) they cut the motor and the enormous creatures came to check us out. It was so great. Really, really great. (Apologies to my fellow boat people, I may have shrieked in excitement a few times...). And it's only a few hours north of Sydney. The season is pretty much over this year, but I would so highly recommend going out next year. I have a feeling we'll be doing it again, maybe I'll see you there?

Six Things I Learnt on the Trip That Was

Well, we're back! Our three months of travel madness is over. And I have to say I'm a little relieved. It's been unbelievably awesome but also a little exhausting. So it's nice to be home with the hounds, with a sense that I have some time to catch up on the paperwork, and to craft, blog and cook to my hearts content. 

Our last trip was pretty great - we went on a 12 night 'holy land' cruise. Our first stop was meant to be Egypt but, well, this was happening right when we were meant to dock so we went to Messina, Sicily and Valetta, Malta instead. In Messina we stumbled upon a giant mechanised clock, just when it was about to strike. In Valetta we visited the stunning blue grotto (see above). Not quite the great pyramids but rather pleasant all the same. Then it was on to Jerusalem, Piraeus and Naples, with a few lazy days in Rome tacked on for good measure. 

Here are six things I learnt:

1. Jerusalem really is amazing 

I wasn't brought up in a religious household. My Mum is most definitely not of the religious persuasion - 'spiritual' perhaps yes, but I think it's safe to say most organised religion leaves her cold. My Dad, even more so. My step-dad is Jewish, but (from my perspective, anyhow) more in a cultural sense than a religious one. I was one of the kids who had a note from their parents that meant I got to read in the library while everyone else was doing RI. So I wasn't sure how I'd feel about Jerusalem, being the place that holds some of the most sacred sites for three of the worlds big religions. I love history and I am fascinated by religion and ritual, but I just wasn't sure...but - it was amazing. 

It's tricky to find the words to explain why, maybe I'm still trying to figure it out in my own head, but I'll have a go. Partly it's seeing all those places that you normally see on the news, associated with violence and unrest, in a light that is peaceful, respectful and even (in the case of the western/wailing wall) festive. It's seeing devout Muslims and Jews and Christians going about their business, worshipping at these sacred sites which are literally next door to each other, in harmony. It's hearing the locals talk - with hope - about peace. It's seeing the separation walls and driving down shiny new highways that not too long ago were border walls with barbed wire and mines. 

There's also something about a place where people devote an entire day to just reading and thinking and praying, a place where people are involved and engaged in politics and the (very relevant) issues of the day. And then there's the food - falafel, hummus, shawarma oh my! It was amazing.

2. Introverts and cruises can mix 

I'm a bit of an introvert. My husband is basically an introvert. The eldest step son is a card carrying inrovert. (Or possible just a moody teen. Or, perhaps more likely, both.) You'd think that being trapped on a big boat, surrounded by thousands of other people day in day out, would be a tough ask. And yet we all enjoy a good cruise. 

The key for introverts is having a place to escape to, to get away from all the people, and the cabin definitely serves this purpose. But so does lying on a deck chair, staring up at the impossibly blue sky with your earphones wedged in to block out the noise of the crowd around you. And so does sitting at the bar just watching the passing parade. And so does sweating for an hour or so at the gym, iPod firmly in ears and eyes keenly scanning the horizon just in case dolphin decides to say 'hi'. Cocktail O'Clock helps a bit too...

3. You can never get tired of looking at an endless blue horizon 

Please see exhibits A, B and C below.

4. There are big differences between an American and an Italian cruise boat 

Our previous cruising experience has been with MSC, the cruise company that prides itself on it's 'distinctive Italian style'. For us, this meant great coffee, great food and great aperitifs. This year we went with Royal Caribbean, an American company that prides itself on good customer service. So it means the staff remember your name, and ask you questions about your day and your family. But it means the coffee sucks, the food is confused and the cocktails involve a lot of soft drink. 

Guess who we'll be cruising with in the future?

5. I travel for food 

Yes, yes I travel to see history and art and natural wonders. But when it comes down to it my favourite things from every trip always include at least one spectacular meal. My travel memories are always centred around the smell and taste of a region or town. And my desire to return is almost always driven by a desire to eat that thing, whatever it was, again. 

This trip it was peanut butter thickshakes at Johnny Rockets (yep, the ship we were on had one on board!); the best falafel and hummus I have ever eaten (just outside Damscas Gate in the Old City of Jerusalem, served by a friendly Palestinian and featuring amazing olive oil from the West Bank); the heavenly flavours of simple Italian food (risotto, prosciutto with mozzarella, garlic and oil bruschetta, pizza diavolo)...yum!

6. That security guards in the Vatican Museum are anxious around vomit 

So. We're walking along the impressive gallery of maps in the Vatican Museum, weaving our way through the crowds and admiring the 16th century frescoes, when the youngest step-son says 'I'm not feeling very well'. Now, I've known this little guy long enough to know this actually means 'You've got thirty seconds to find me a vomit receptacle or else there's going to be some additional 'paint' on these historic maps'. Serendipitously my husband had just bought (yet another) travel guide, and for some reason I'd kept the plastic bag. So, there we stood, amongst the throngs of tourists heading to the Sistine Chapel, whilst the poor sick youngest step son did what he had to do...

In case you don't know, the fun part of being in the Vatican Museum is that once you're on the path to the Sistine Chapel you can't really exit, until you've seen the Sistine Chapel. And if you're carrying a bag of vomit, don't expect a warm welcome or a great deal of help from the guards scattered about the place...

The Southern Spain Trip : My Top Five

Well actually one of the five is in France. And one of the five is kind of in international waters. But enough explaining, let's get on with the post...* 

1. Segovia
That's Segovia up there - stunning huh? Segovia is about 45 minutes drive from Madrid (unless you miss the turn off, as we may or may not have done, and then it's 1.5 hours from Madrid...). When you're looking for somewhere close to Madrid to spend a night or two, everyone seems to recommend Toldeo. And I can sort of understand why - the place just oozes history and it has lots of lovely buildings. But it's also hot (really hot) and kind of a bit soulless in a strange way. We had planned to stay in Toledo for two nights on this trip, but after one night we packed our bags and took off to Segovia. 

Segovia really was stunning - a beautiful old town, complete with an amazingly intact Roman aqueduct, gorgeous cathedral and fairytale-esque castle. Plus it has good shopping and very lively tapas bars. It felt like a town where the locals lived their life, not just one where tourists came and gawked. 

We stayed in the Parador, which was a bit out of town but had a pool and a great restaurant, both with a view looking back over the town (see above photo at sunset - magic!). It also had some awesome 70s architecture - giant spaces filled with giant indoor plants, big concrete slabs, exposed brickwork - it looked just the way people in the 50s imagined how the future would look.

2. Dolphins off the coast of Malaga
We've been on a few big boats in the Mediterranean and we've never seen dolphins and it's always disappointed me (because really, how awesome are dolphins?). But the first night of our cruise as we were pulling out of Malaga and heading to Valencia, as the sun was setting and we were eating dinner, a constant parade of dolphins was passing by. Some on their own, some in groups of ten or twenty; some jumping and playing, some just swimming along in that graceful way they do. I didn't have my camera with me, but that's okay, because it was enough just to be able to watch them pass by.

3. Corsica
One of the stops on the boat we were both looking forward to (mainly because it was a new place) was the island of Corsica. Corsica was delightfully French (the food!), rather pretty and had a relaxed beachy feel. We wandered about, drooled a bit at the food market, and ate a tasty loooong lunch. And I wore one of my favourite vintage frocks (this one). It's a place I think we'd both like to visit again (and not just for the world's best worst photoshopped postcards ever).

4. The Alhambra, Granada 

After getting off the boat and picking up a hire car, we drove to Granada. Granada is a nice enough town, but what makes it worth a visit is the spectacular Calat Alhambra (Red Castle) and the stunning gardens (the Generalife) that surround it. The photos barely capture the loveliness of it all...

5. The Sunsets

*I've been watching a lot of Miranda lately. Have you watched it? You should, if you can find it. She is a very funny lady.

ps. More (many more) photos from the trip will be on my Flickr soon!